A Roaring Runway
Known as the années folles (“crazy years”) in France, the 1920s in Paris were a decade of culture and creativity, embraced by a society ripe from the devastation of WWI. While not a Parisian herself, African-American singer and actress, Josephine Baker, became one of the most infamous names to come out of this era in the city, known for her risqué stage appearances and persona which sparked adoration from other icons of the time, such as Hemingway and Picasso. Not just an entertainer, Baker was awarded a Resistance Medal for her work with the French Resistance during WWII, and was a supporter of the Civil Rights Movement.
Nearly 100 years since her first Parisian performance, Baker is still inspiring fashion and culture in the city. In Dior’s recent Spring/Summer 2023 Haute Couture Show, Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri was guided by the cabaret performer’s charisma and beauty.
Paying particular attention to a garment’s fabric and construction, the way it glides over a body and caresses it, the show displayed creased silk and velvet, alongside delicate embroidery. Details such as tiny silver studs and sequins were reflected back to the audience and silver and gold fringe emphasised the models’ movements. Suits and coats were masculine in style and the hems sat above the ankle to highlight the bold heels and soles of the shoes.
The Baker inspiration is clear in this runway, showing the idol’s delicate femininity and powerful confidence through fashion and using it as an expression of value and strength.
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